Saturday, August 29, 2009

Spaghetti Puttanesca

Any time we have the opportunity to have spicy food we take it. But it can be tough finding that opportunity with a small person in the house. Our best bet is to make a pasta sauce because little j doesn't always want sauce and is perfectly happy with olive oil and salt on her pasta.

Until a few months ago I had never made Puttanesca sauce -- boy was I missing out! Not only is it spicy, it's quick! I've looked at several recipes, and here is my take:

Spaghetti Puttanesca
serves 4

8-10 ounces dried spaghetti
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon water
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon red pepper flakes (according to taste)
4 teaspoons anchovy paste
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained, 1/2 cup juice reserved
3 tablespoons capers, rinsed
1/2 cup pitted Kalamata olives, chopped course
1/4 cup minced fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley

Cook spaghetti according to instructions.

While pasta is cooking, mix garlic and water together in a small bowl. Immediately hear the olive oil, garlic mixture, red pepper flakes and anchovies in large skillet (not nonstick) over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until garlic is fragrant but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and simmer until just beginning to thicken, about 8 minutes.

Drain pasta and return to the pot. Add 1/4 cup of reserved tomato juice and toss to combine.

Stir the capers, olives and parsley into the sauce. Pour the sauce over the pasta and toss to combine. Adjust seasonings if necessary and serve immediately, passing fresh grated Parmesan to top.

Friday, August 7, 2009

Tavola Review

Last night Big J and I went to Tavola, a new restaurant in the Belmont area of Charlottesville. I think I've said before that I generally don't like going out for Italian food with very few exceptions. As it turns out, Tavola is one of those exceptions.

Tavola is a small, rustic neighborhood restaurant with just 37 seats. The decor is light punctuated by dark wood and copper, with an open kitchen and a small bar. It feels intimate, like eating a good friend's home. Which, in our case, is sort of true, since we know the owner/head chef and his wife.

We arrived around 6:45 to discover a completely full house. But we weren't on a schedule and we sat at the bar and enjoyed a glass of Leo Hillinger Secco sparkling pinot noir until a table came available.

We started our meal with Cozze ai Ferri -- skillet roasted mussels with garlic butter and parsley. They were divine. I had not thought of roasting mussles, but the method brought out and slightly mellowed the flavor of the mussels.

We next had Insalata Caprese -- a salad of heirloom tomatoes, basil and mozzarella. The chef uses locally sourced items when possible, so the tomoatoes were incredibly flavorful.

Four our main entrees Big J chose Spalla di Maiale alla Griglia -- fennel pollen-crusted pork shoulder, rosemary pesto, apple-fennel salad. Oh my! I don't know that I have ever had better pork. It had been grilled over wood and was cooked to perfection. The apple-fennel salad was a nice foil-crunchy, tart, and fresh.

I chose the Spaghetti alla Carbonara -- sausage, pancetta, egg, onion, pecorino cheese, black papper. I measure good Italian by the quality of the carbonara and this dish did not disappoint. It was light and flavorful with a nice spice from the sausage and black pepper accentuating each bite. Some carbonara recipes call for cream, which I think is a travesty and masks the fresh flavors of egg and pancetta. Done well, the egg produces a light creamy sauce that compliments rather than coats the pasta. This carbonara was done exceedlingly well.

We paired our meal with a carafe of 2007 La Bastide St. Dominique Cotes du Rhone, a delightful blend of syrah, grenache, and mourvedre.

We finished the meal with a light lemon polenta cake topped with summer berries and ricotta-black pepper cream. The cake was simple and moist, the berries obviously local and incredibly fresh. The ricotta-bleack pepper cream was an inspired addition with the pepper cutting through the sweet-tart berries and adding a lovely dimension to the dish.

All in all, it was a terrific meal. We will definitely be returning with little j in tow. With no entree over $20, it is the type of place we can go as a family or for date night without worrying about spending too much and with the guarantee of a good meal. In a town where restaurants come and go with a sad frequency, Tavola is one restaurant that could make its mark and become a fixed feature.